Tulips enjoy well drained soil with a pH above 6. Therefore
wetter soils can benefit from being moulded into raised beds and the
pH can be adjusted by the addition of lime or dolomite, if necessary.
The best fertiliser is a combination of blood and bone and a little
complete fertiliser mixed into the soil prior to planting. Tulips
also like a cool Winter, so we achieve this in Australia’s milder
climates by refrigerating the bulbs (see below). Plant tulips at
the end of April or early May when the soil has cooled to below 14
degrees. Cover them with 15-20cm of soil to insulate them from the
sun’s heat and plant 7-20cm apart. Most bulbs prefer a sunny or half
shade situation. Unhealthy bulbs should be removed to protect the
main planting. While your bulbs are growing keep them free from aphids
and do not over-water during the winter. After flowering, water them
well so that they will produce nice bulbs for the following year.
These new bulbs can be lifted when the foliage yellows, and stored
in a net bag in a well ventilated area away from direct sunlight.
The ideal temperature is around 20 degrees, but in hot climates this
may be hard to achieve. Sustained very high temperatures will kill
the flower developing in the bulb. Many people ask if they can leave
tulip bulbs in the ground. Unfortunately, there is no easy answer
to this question. In Tasmania, and some parts of mainland Australia
with cool summers, it appears possible to leave bulbs unlifted for
2-3 years if the area in which they are growing is dry during the
summer. We suggest only single late and darwin hybrid varieties for
this, however we are unable to recommend this treatment.
View our Growing Tulips around Australia Map and Advice
Cut tulip flowers while they are nicely coloured buds. Arranging
tulips is a joy – because they do it themselves. A clean vase and
fresh water and in they go “Hey Presto” an elegant display. The flower
buds will intensify in colour and open, and even grow further in length.
Tulip Bulbs
in Pots (water misers)
A number of our varieties are very suitable for potting (look
for potting symbol). A bulb potting mix can be purchased from most
nurseries. Bulbs in pots require more care than those grown in the
garden since they can easily dry out. For best results with potted
tulips, use a large pot or tub where the bulbs have plenty of room
to grow and survive for a few extra days if you forget to water them.
Potted bulbs should be kept outside, except during flowering when
they may be taken indoors. The critical time for care of the bulbs
is after flowering. During this time the bulbs make their growth
for the next year and if the pot dries out during this period the
bulbs may not grow to flowering size.
For more information see attached sheet on Potting Tulips for Home Gardeners
Growing
Tulips in warmer climates
Yes,
tulips do grow better in cooler climates but you can share the pleasure
in warmer climates too!
Imagine a beautiful tub of colour to enjoy in late winter in Sydney
or Brisbane that will be the envy of all of your neighbours. It will
probably not be possible for you to get flowers from the bulbs in
the next year but the 2-3 weeks of pleasure that you obtain from these
stunning flowers will be a good value purchase from your garden/flower/wine/lotto
budget.
Just follow these simple steps:
1. Select your bulbs from the medium and tall growing bulbs, not the
rockery types. The safest ones to grow are those marked for warm climates.
2. Do not take delivery of your tulips until at least March (this
protects the bulbs from the worst of your summer heat). Please note that we do not deliver before March.
3. Between mid-March and early April put the bulbs in the crisper
of your fridge for 6-8 weeks until late May
4. Plant the bulbs in a large pot/tub with up to 10 bulbs for a 20
cm pot, 20 bulbs for a 30 cm pot, 35 bulbs for a 40 cm pot and up
to 50 bulbs for a 50 cm pot. (You can under-plant with violas, or other annualsand
reduce the number of tulips.) Use a good quality potting mix from
your nursery.
5.
Place the tub in the coldest place in your garden, with absolutely
no sun, until the shoots are about 5 cm high.
6. Move the tub to your preferred display position, full sun or shade,
and enjoy the spectacle of the rapid growth and flowering of the tulips.
If you wish to try and flower the bulbs for a second year, use only
bulbs marked in our catalogue as suitable for warm areas.
Re-Using Bulbs in Warmer Climates (Year on Year Growing)
Bulb growers in warm climates (e.g. Perth, Brisbane, Sydney) face some difficult issues with respect to re-using tulips for a second and subsequent years.
These issues relate to:
- The short period for new bulb growth following flowering
- The very long period of senescence
- Summer heat
1. The short period for new bulb growth following flowering
Tulips and dutch iris differ from many bulbs in that the bulbs produced after each growing period are new bulbs. The bulb that is planted is used up producing the new leaves and flowers and new bulbs that were embryonic in the planted bulb grow to replace the planted bulb. Normally, 2-3 new bulbs are produced but the total aggregate weight produced is usually no more than double that of the planted bulb. For refrigerated bulbs, the yield is usually no more than the planted weight – i.e. no increase in weight at all.
The growth of the new bulbs is mostly in the period between flowering and senescence. To maximise this new bulb growth, the ideal conditions are cool-warm temperatures (say 15-20 degrees C combined with optimal nutrition and moisture. In warm climates, refrigerated bulbs often have a relatively short period between flowering and senescence due to a too-warm climate and effects of the refrigeration. Consequently, many of the bulbs produced will mostly not flower because they are too small. Tulip varieties have critical bulb circumferences before they will flower. For many varieties that circumference is about 8 cm but can vary from 6-9 cm for common varieties.
Therefore, problem number 1 for tulip growers in warm climates is that there may well be a shortage of bulbs that are of flowering size following growth.
2. The very long period of senescence
Dormant tulips are basically an energy store which also contains embryonic leaves, flower and bulbs for the coming crop. They are still alive and continually use energy and lose moisture. A commercial tulip grower will normally have the bulbs in storage from say, mid-December until mid-April – say 4 months, maybe 5. The December harvest will follow planting in mid-April and flowering in early October (the bulbs will not have been refrigerated).
A gardener in a warm climate will have refrigerated the bulbs and planted in, say, mid-May. The bulbs will flower in about late July-August and die back in late September. The following year they cannot be planted again because of the heat until mid-May. This is a period of about 8 months. This is a very long time to have tulips out of the ground and by this time the bulbs will be significantly compromised.
3. Summer heat
Tulips need a period of about 8 weeks following lifting to develop the flower for the new season. They do this best a temperatures of about 20 degrees. Once the new flowers are developed they are susceptible to abortion if they are subject to extended periods of temperature in excess of 30 degrees. For air conditioned homes this may not constitute a problem but in many situations it does, especially when high daytime temperatures are combined with warm nights as well.
How to Maximise the Chances of Second Crops
The above problems may make it look as if it is too hard and in some situation it probably is. Certainly, a third crop in warm climates will be extremely difficult. However, there are ways to maximise chances based on confronting the problems noted above.
- Variety selection is very important if you want a second crop. On the other hand, if you wish to grow the tulips as annuals you can use virtually any variety.
Tulips vary in the amount of cold they need to produce good growth. For warm climates, it makes sense to use the varieties which need the least cold to flower successfully. These varieties are noted in our catalogue as being suitable for warm climates. Generally, they are members of the group of tulips known as “single lates”.
Varieties which need the least cold need the least time in the refrigerator and so will most likely produce the biggest crop of bulbs and also, possibly, die back the latest – thus minimising the time in storage.
Varieties such as Menton, Maja and Maureen may even grow without any refrigeration at all – although it would be advisable to give them at least a couple of weeks.
- Storage of the bulbs is also important. Ideally the bulbs should be at about 20 degrees, well ventilated and free of aphids. Storage at temperatures around 25 degrees will be ok but a critical point is reached nearing 30 degrees where the new flowers will abort. The bulbs will then be put in the refrigerator for the desired time before planting when the soil has cooled to about 15 degrees.
- Planting in optimal conditions also helps – provided viable bulbs with flowers inside them are used. In warm climates the bulbs are often planted in pots. Pots have the advantage that they can be moved and placed in total shade in the coolest place in the garden from planting until they emerge (say 5-10 cm high). Then they can be placed in whatever position is desired. This is good practice in cool climates as well.
Still too Hard?
Comfort yourself with the fact that tulips have never been cheaper and in the last decade the real price has fallen by about 75%. Perhaps you can now afford this spectacular celebration of spring through annual purchase of the bulbs. Also, annual purchase allows tulip growing even in hot climates in Australia.
View attached information sheet and map for a visual interpretation of Growing Tulips around Australia
Refrigerating
Bulbs
Refrigerating bulbs is a technique you can use to persuade
your tulips to flower earlier, and to achieve maximum stem length,
although it may result in a reduction in bulb yield next season.
To successfully chill your tulips only use large flowering sizes (10cm
circumference and larger) and place them in an open paper bag in the
vegetable drawer of the fridge for 6-8 weeks before planting. What
you are doing is stimulating the hormones in the bulb to convert the
starch within the bulb scales to sugars. This ready energy allows
the plant to develop faster and flower earlier. If you live in a
warm climate area it will be essential to chill your bulbs, however
in cooler areas such as Tasmania and mainland areas with cold, frosty
winter nights, nature will complete this process for you. Experiment
and see what the response is in your environment. Note: Do not refrigerate
ANGELIQUE bulbs, as the bulbs from this variety will probably be too
small to flower next year.
Storing Bulbs
on Arrival
We recommend that you unpack your order on arrival, open the
tops of the paper bags, and leave them in a well ventilated cool area.
Keep away from ripening fruit or other sources of ethylene as this
may produce flowering disorders, and try to ensure that the bulbs
are not subject to sustained periods of high temperature. Please
check your order on arrival to ensure that it is correct. If you
find a discrepancy please contact us.
Quality Control
Quality is all important to us, as indeed it is to you.
Once our tulip crops are through the ground, our team walks the crop
every fine day for three months removing any plant that doesn’t make
the grade. Similarly, once the bulbs are harvested they are graded,
sized and re-inspected so that only the best bulbs are available for
mailorder. Every effort is made to deliver sound healthy bulbs, so
please contact us if there are any problems, as we are here to assist
you. Our liability is however, limited to the value of the bulbs delivered.
Tulip Bulb
Life Cycle
Please Click
here to go to the the graphical display of the Tulip Lifecycle
Tulip Families
and Characteristics
Single Early Tulips – Usually early flowerers, that need
to be chilled to get height for picking. Good upright leaves make
them excellent for pots.
Triumphs – Medium height with upright leaves. Can be planted closely
(10cm). Popular cut flowers, but need to be chilled to give good
length. Great potted.
Darwin Hybrids – Multiply well, with broad leaves and medium height. Need
to be spaced wider if potted. Beautiful for massed plantings.
Rockery (Greigii & Fosteriana) – Very versatile and low growing,
often featuring patterned foliage. They can be left in the ground
to naturalise.
Doubles – These varieties feature another whirl of petals and look
fabulous wherever planted.
Fringed – Always stunning with their crystallised edges.
Parrots – These tulips are bred with feathered and irregular petals
and provide an exotic and flamboyant touch.
Single Lates – These tall elegant tulips are well suited to Australia’s
warmer climate. The flowers retain their classic shape until the
petals fall.
You can view the different types be visiting our on-line shop
Growing Dutch
Iris
Dutch Iris are a most rewarding bulb to grow. They prefer
temperate climates, but will tolerate warmer conditions than tulips.
Soil conditions need to be similar, however planting can begin in
early April. Plant 8cm deep and 8cm apart and immediately water well
to assist root growth. Keep well watered throughout the growing season
for best results. The bulbs can be left in place year after year
and are best planted in groups, which quickly multiply into free-flowering
clumps. Iris make excellent cut flowers and can be cut once the
buds have begun to unfurl.
Growing Narcissus
Narcissus
or daffodils can be enjoyed in all but sub-tropical and tropical climates,
and they like a well drained, moist soil that remains as cool as possible.
In warmer areas, deep planting, mulching and leaf canopy cover in
summer can be helpful in controlling excessive heat. Generally plant
15cm deep (deeper in sandy soils) and 20cm apart. The landscaping
possibilities range from naturalising, to beds, borders and miniatures
in rock gardens. Like most bulbs they grow best in well drained soils
with a pH of 6-7 and enjoy lots of water while they are growing.
Divide and spread bulbs out after 4-5 years. Daffodils don’t need
a dry summer dormancy and enjoy some high potassium, low nitrogen
fertilizer in winter when the leaves are emerging. Please leave their
leaves to die back naturally so that you get maximum bulb growth.
