Tulips enjoy well drained soil with a pH above 6. Therefore
wetter soils can benefit from being moulded into raised beds and the pH can be
adjusted by the addition of lime or dolomite, if necessary. The best fertiliser
is a combination of blood and bone and a little complete fertiliser mixed into
the soil prior to planting. Tulips also like a cool Winter, so we achieve this
in Australia’s milder climates by refrigerating the bulbs (see below). Plant
tulips at the end of April or early May when the soil has cooled to below 14 degrees.
Cover them with 15-20cm of soil to insulate them from the sun’s heat and plant
7-20cm apart. Most bulbs prefer a sunny or half shade situation. Unhealthy bulbs
should be removed to protect the main planting. While your bulbs are growing
keep them free from aphids and do not over-water during the winter. After flowering,
water them well so that they will produce nice bulbs for the following year.
These new bulbs can be lifted when the foliage yellows, and stored in a net bag
in a well ventilated area away from direct sunlight. The ideal temperature is
around 20 degrees, but in hot climates this may be hard to achieve. Sustained
very high temperatures will kill the flower developing in the bulb. Many people
ask if they can leave tulip bulbs in the ground. Unfortunately, there is no easy
answer to this question. In Tasmania, and some parts of mainland Australia with
cool summers, it appears possible to leave bulbs unlifted for 2-3 years if the
area in which they are growing is dry during the summer. We suggest only single
late and darwin hybrid varieties for this, however we are unable to recommend
this treatment.
View
our Growing
Tulips around Australia Map and Advice
Cut tulip flowers while they are nicely coloured buds. Arranging
tulips is a joy – because they do it themselves. A clean vase and fresh water
and in they go “Hey Presto” an elegant display. The flower buds will intensify
in colour and open, and even grow further in length.
Tulip
Bulbs in Pots (water misers)
A number of our varieties are very suitable for potting (look
for potting symbol). A bulb potting mix can be purchased from most nurseries.
Bulbs in pots require more care than those grown in the garden since they can
easily dry out. For best results with potted tulips, use a large pot or tub where
the bulbs have plenty of room to grow and survive for a few extra days if you
forget to water them. Potted bulbs should be kept outside, except during flowering
when they may be taken indoors. The critical time for care of the bulbs is after
flowering. During this time the bulbs make their growth for the next year and
if the pot dries out during this period the bulbs may not grow to flowering size.
For
more information see attached sheet on Potting
Tulips for Home Gardeners
Growing
Tulips in warmer climates
Yes,
tulips do grow better in cooler climates but you can share the pleasure in warmer
climates too!
Imagine a beautiful tub of colour to enjoy in late winter in Sydney or Brisbane
that will be the envy of all of your neighbours. It will probably not be possible
for you to get flowers from the bulbs in the next year but the 2-3 weeks of pleasure
that you obtain from these stunning flowers will be a good value purchase from
your garden/flower/wine/lotto budget.
Just follow these simple steps:
1. Select your bulbs from the medium and tall growing bulbs, not the rockery types.
The safest ones to grow are those marked for warm climates.
2. Do not take delivery of your tulips until at least March (this protects the
bulbs from the worst of your summer heat). Please note that we do not deliver
before March.
3. Between mid-March and early April put the bulbs in the crisper of your fridge
for 6-8 weeks until late May
4. Plant the bulbs in a large pot/tub with up to 10 bulbs for a 20 cm pot, 20
bulbs for a 30 cm pot, 35 bulbs for a 40 cm pot and up to 50 bulbs for a 50 cm
pot. (You can under-plant with violas, or other annualsand reduce the number of
tulips.) Use a good quality potting mix from your nursery.
5.
Place the tub in the coldest place in your garden, with absolutely no sun, until
the shoots are about 5 cm high.
6. Move the tub to your preferred display position, full sun or shade, and enjoy
the spectacle of the rapid growth and flowering of the tulips.
If you wish to try and flower the bulbs for a second year, use only bulbs marked
in our catalogue as suitable for warm areas.
Re-Using
Bulbs in Warmer Climates (Year on Year Growing)
Bulb
growers in warm climates (e.g. Perth, Brisbane, Sydney) face some difficult issues
with respect to re-using tulips for a second and subsequent years.
These
issues relate to:
- The
short period for new bulb growth following flowering
- The
very long period of senescence
- Summer
heat
1.
The short period for new bulb growth following flowering
Tulips
and dutch iris differ from many bulbs in that the bulbs produced after each growing
period are new bulbs. The bulb that is planted is used up producing the new leaves
and flowers and new bulbs that were embryonic in the planted bulb grow to replace
the planted bulb. Normally, 2-3 new bulbs are produced but the total aggregate
weight produced is usually no more than double that of the planted bulb. For refrigerated
bulbs, the yield is usually no more than the planted weight – i.e. no increase
in weight at all.
The
growth of the new bulbs is mostly in the period between flowering and senescence.
To maximise this new bulb growth, the ideal conditions are cool-warm temperatures
(say 15-20 degrees C combined with optimal nutrition and moisture. In warm climates,
refrigerated bulbs often have a relatively short period between flowering and
senescence due to a too-warm climate and effects of the refrigeration. Consequently,
many of the bulbs produced will mostly not flower because they are too small.
Tulip varieties have critical bulb circumferences before they will flower. For
many varieties that circumference is about 8 cm but can vary from 6-9 cm for common
varieties.
Therefore,
problem number 1 for tulip growers in warm climates is that there may well be
a shortage of bulbs that are of flowering size following growth.
2.
The very long period of senescence
Dormant
tulips are basically an energy store which also contains embryonic leaves, flower
and bulbs for the coming crop. They are still alive and continually use energy
and lose moisture. A commercial tulip grower will normally have the bulbs in storage
from say, mid-December until mid-April – say 4 months, maybe 5. The December
harvest will follow planting in mid-April and flowering in early October (the
bulbs will not have been refrigerated).
A
gardener in a warm climate will have refrigerated the bulbs and planted in, say,
mid-May. The bulbs will flower in about late July-August and die back in late
September. The following year they cannot be planted again because of the heat
until mid-May. This is a period of about 8 months. This is a very long time to
have tulips out of the ground and by this time the bulbs will be significantly
compromised.
3.
Summer heat
Tulips
need a period of about 8 weeks following lifting to develop the flower for the
new season. They do this best a temperatures of about 20 degrees. Once the new
flowers are developed they are susceptible to abortion if they are subject to
extended periods of temperature in excess of 30 degrees. For air conditioned homes
this may not constitute a problem but in many situations it does, especially when
high daytime temperatures are combined with warm nights as well.
How
to Maximise the Chances of Second Crops
The
above problems may make it look as if it is too hard and in some situation it
probably is. Certainly, a third crop in warm climates will be extremely difficult.
However, there are ways to maximise chances based on confronting the problems
noted above.
- Variety
selection is very important if you want a second crop. On the other hand,
if you wish to grow the tulips as annuals you can use virtually any variety.
Tulips
vary in the amount of cold they need to produce good growth. For warm climates,
it makes sense to use the varieties which need the least cold to flower successfully.
These varieties are noted in our catalogue as being suitable for warm climates.
Generally, they are members of the group of tulips known as “single lates”.
Varieties
which need the least cold need the least time in the refrigerator and so will
most likely produce the biggest crop of bulbs and also, possibly, die back the
latest – thus minimising the time in storage.
Varieties
such as Menton, Maja and Maureen may even grow without any refrigeration at all
– although it would be advisable to give them at least a couple of weeks.
- Storage
of the bulbs is also important. Ideally the bulbs should be at about 20 degrees,
well ventilated and free of aphids. Storage at temperatures around 25 degrees
will be ok but a critical point is reached nearing 30 degrees where the new flowers
will abort. The bulbs will then be put in the refrigerator for the desired time
before planting when the soil has cooled to about 15 degrees.
- Planting
in optimal conditions also helps – provided viable bulbs with flowers inside
them are used. In warm climates the bulbs are often planted in pots. Pots have
the advantage that they can be moved and placed in total shade in the coolest
place in the garden from planting until they emerge (say 5-10 cm high). Then they
can be placed in whatever position is desired. This is good practice in cool climates
as well.
Still
too Hard?
Comfort
yourself with the fact that tulips have never been cheaper and in the last decade
the real price has fallen by about 75%. Perhaps you can now afford this spectacular
celebration of spring through annual purchase of the bulbs. Also, annual purchase
allows tulip growing even in hot climates in Australia.
View
attached information sheet and map for a visual interpretation of Growing
Tulips around Australia
Refrigerating
Bulbs
Refrigerating bulbs is a technique you can use to persuade
your tulips to flower earlier, and to achieve maximum stem length, although it
may result in a reduction in bulb yield next season. To successfully chill your
tulips only use large flowering sizes (10cm circumference and larger) and place
them in an open paper bag in the vegetable drawer of the fridge for 6-8 weeks
before planting. What you are doing is stimulating the hormones in the bulb to
convert the starch within the bulb scales to sugars. This ready energy allows
the plant to develop faster and flower earlier. If you live in a warm climate
area it will be essential to chill your bulbs, however in cooler areas such as
Tasmania and mainland areas with cold, frosty winter nights, nature will complete
this process for you. Experiment and see what the response is in your environment.
Note: Do not refrigerate ANGELIQUE bulbs, as the bulbs from this variety will
probably be too small to flower next year.
Storing
Bulbs on Arrival
We recommend that you unpack your order on arrival, open the
tops of the paper bags, and leave them in a well ventilated cool area. Keep away
from ripening fruit or other sources of ethylene as this may produce flowering
disorders, and try to ensure that the bulbs are not subject to sustained periods
of high temperature. Please check your order on arrival to ensure that it is
correct. If you find a discrepancy please contact us.
Quality
Control
Quality is all important to us, as indeed it is to you.
Once our tulip crops are through the ground, our team walks the crop every fine
day for three months removing any plant that doesn’t make the grade. Similarly,
once the bulbs are harvested they are graded, sized and re-inspected so that only
the best bulbs are available for mailorder. Every effort is made to deliver sound
healthy bulbs, so please contact us if there are any problems, as we are here
to assist you. Our liability is however, limited to the value of the bulbs delivered.
Tulip
Bulb Life Cycle
Please
Click here
to go to the the graphical display of the Tulip Lifecycle
Tulip
Families and Characteristics
Single Early Tulips – Usually early flowerers, that need
to be chilled to get height for picking. Good upright leaves make them excellent
for pots.
Triumphs – Medium height with upright leaves. Can be planted closely
(10cm). Popular cut flowers, but need to be chilled to give good length. Great
potted.
Darwin Hybrids – Multiply well, with broad leaves and medium height. Need
to be spaced wider if potted. Beautiful for massed plantings.
Rockery (Greigii & Fosteriana) – Very versatile and low growing,
often featuring patterned foliage. They can be left in the ground to naturalise.
Doubles – These varieties feature another whirl of petals and look
fabulous wherever planted.
Fringed – Always stunning with their crystallised edges.
Parrots – These tulips are bred with feathered and irregular petals
and provide an exotic and flamboyant touch.
Single Lates – These tall elegant tulips are well suited to Australia’s
warmer climate. The flowers retain their classic shape until the petals fall.
You
can view the different types be visiting our on-line shop
Growing
Dutch Iris
Dutch Iris are a most rewarding bulb to grow. They prefer
temperate climates, but will tolerate warmer conditions than tulips. Soil conditions
need to be similar, however planting can begin in early April. Plant 8cm deep
and 8cm apart and immediately water well to assist root growth. Keep well watered
throughout the growing season for best results. The bulbs can be left in place
year after year and are best planted in groups, which quickly multiply into free-flowering
clumps. Iris make excellent cut flowers and can be cut once the buds have begun
to unfurl.
Growing
Narcissus & Snowflakes
Narcissus
or daffodils can be enjoyed in all but sub-tropical and tropical climates, and
they like a well drained, moist soil that remains as cool as possible. In warmer
areas, deep planting, mulching and leaf canopy cover in summer can be helpful
in controlling excessive heat. Generally plant 15cm deep (deeper in sandy soils)
and 20cm apart. The landscaping possibilities range from naturalising, to beds,
borders and miniatures in rock gardens. Like most bulbs they grow best in well
drained soils with a pH of 6-7 and enjoy lots of water while they are growing.
Divide and spread bulbs out after 4-5 years. Daffodils don’t need a dry summer
dormancy and enjoy some high potassium, low nitrogen fertilizer in winter when
the leaves are emerging. Please leave their leaves to die back naturally so that
you get maximum bulb growth.
